There are two different things to address when it comes to reactivity to dogs. First and foremost, we have to work on behavior modification UNDER THRESHOLD– teaching your dog to feel and act differently when seeing other dogs.
“Threshold” in dog reactivity refers to the point where a dog goes from being able to notice a trigger and still think (under threshold) …as contrasted to being emotionally overwhelmed and reacting (over threshold).
For a dog-reactive dog, the trigger is usually another dog.
Think of it like a stress line:
- Under threshold = the dog sees another dog but can still:
- eat treats
- respond to cues
- sniff
- disengage
- think and learn
- Over threshold = the dog is too emotionally activated to process information well and may:
- bark
- lunge
- stare hard
- whine or scream
- pull
- ignore food
- become physically tense
The important part is that threshold is not just about behavior — it’s about the dog’s emotional and nervous system state.
A dog can actually be over threshold before barking starts.
For example:
- freezing
- hard staring
- closed mouth
- leaning forward
- ears locked in
- slow stalking
- refusing food
can all mean the dog is already too aroused to learn effectively.
Distance and Threshold
For many reactive dogs, threshold changes based on distance.
Example:
- Another dog at 150 feet → relaxed
- 80 feet → alert but responsive
- 40 feet → stiff and fixated
- 20 feet → barking/lunging
In that example, threshold is somewhere between 40–80 feet.
That distance is where training matters most.
Why Threshold Matters
Dogs learn best when they are under threshold.
If a dog is repeatedly pushed over threshold:
- reactions get rehearsed
- adrenaline spikes
- frustration increases
- the nervous system becomes sensitized
- recovery takes longer
This is why “just expose him to dogs until he gets used to it” often backfires.
A Useful Way to Think About Reactivity
A reactive dog is not usually choosing behaviors rationally once over threshold.
The brain shifts from:
- thinking
to: - survival/emotional responding
That’s why cues suddenly “stop working.”
Training Zone vs Explosion Zone
A helpful framework:
Green Zone — Under Threshold
- notices trigger
- can disengage
- takes food
- can move away
- learning possible
This is where you want most training.
Yellow Zone — Approaching Threshold
- intense staring
- body stiffening
- slower responses
- hypervigilance
- food less interesting
This is your warning zone. Increase distance or redirect before escalation.
Red Zone — Over Threshold
- barking/lunging
- explosive pulling
- panic/frustration
- unable to respond
At this point, training is mostly over. The goal becomes:
- create distance
- help recovery
- avoid adding pressure
Recovery Matters Too
Some dogs recover in 10 seconds.
Others stay elevated for 20 minutes after one trigger.
A dog that has multiple trigger exposures on one walk can gradually become more reactive because stress stacks:
- dog #1 raises arousal
- dog #2 pushes closer to threshold
- dog #3 causes explosion
This is called trigger stacking.
What Good Reactivity Work Looks Like
Good training is often:
- farther away than people expect
- calmer than people expect
- less dramatic than people expect
You’re trying to keep the dog in a state where:
“I see the dog… but I can still function.”
That emotional state is where lasting behavior change happens.
LAT Training for Reactive Dogs
The specific training is called LAT. LAT, which stands for Look At That, is a dog reactivity exercise commonly associated with Leslie McDevitt and her Control Unleashed program. The goal of LAT is to teach a reactive dog that seeing a trigger — such as another dog — is a cue to calmly check in with the handler instead of escalating into barking, lunging, or fixation. Rather than trying to stop the dog from looking at the trigger, LAT actually encourages controlled observation at a safe distance where the dog remains under threshold. The trigger becomes information instead of a crisis.
In practice, the dog sees another dog, and the moment they notice it calmly, the handler marks the behavior (with a clicker or verbal marker like “yes”) and rewards the dog, usually with food. Over time, many dogs begin automatically glancing at the trigger and then turning back to the handler expecting reinforcement. This creates a pattern of disengagement and emotional regulation instead of fixation and explosion. LAT works best when the dog is far enough away to still think and learn; if the dog is barking, lunging, or unable to take food, the setup is usually too difficult. Done consistently, LAT can help a reactive dog develop calmer emotional associations and better coping habits around triggers. In time, dependent upon the dog’s mental abilities, the dog can move closer and closer to other dogs and stay non-reactive.
A great video that shows LAT in action: https://youtu.be/-O1u3T3zS2M?si=pkmTk3eGifc4sKeg
The above discusses how to modify the behavior of your dog UNDER THRESHOLD. I want to be clear about what to do when you are just walking him and come upon a dog (over threshold).
So we assume in this document that your pup isn’t trying to hurt anyone. What we’re seeing is a dog who:
- gets over-aroused on leash
- likely feels frustrated or conflicted
- expresses it through barking + lunging
So instead of thinking “aggression,” think:
👉 “Your dog loses control of himself when restrained”
That means your job is not to “stop aggression,” but to:
👉 give him a clear, rehearsed exit behavior he can succeed with
Updated Plan for Over-Threshold Walks
1. Use “LET’S GO!” as a fast exit cue
When a dog is within your dog’s threshold of reactivity, this is your most important tool:
👉 help him disengage before he boils over
Practice daily when a dog comes within range:
- Say: “LET’S GO!”
- Turn 180° immediately
- Put a high-value treat right up to your dog’s nose
- Move quickly and feed as you go
Make it:
- fast
- upbeat
- automatic
You’re building:
👉 “When I feel amped up, I move with my person”
2. Catch the moment before the explosion
With dogs like your dog, there’s always a moment right before barking:
- ears forward
- body stiffens
- slight forward lean
- maybe whining or breath change
That’s your window.
When you see a dog:
- Don’t wait
- Don’t test him
Just:
👉 “LET’S GO!” and move
If you wait for barking, you’re already behind.
3. Understand why he won’t turn with you
In that moment:
- his brain is flooded with arousal
- forward motion feels really good
- the leash creates frustration
So when you pull back, he pushes harder.
That’s why:
👉 leash pressure alone won’t work
Instead:
- use food to guide his head
- move your body decisively
- create momentum away from the trigger
4. Give him an outlet for that energy
Part of the problem is:
👉 he wants to do something when he sees a dog
So we replace the behavior.
Simple pattern:
When he notices a dog at a workable distance:
- “LET’S GO!”
- move away
- feed while moving
Over time, this becomes:
👉 his default response instead of barking
5. Handle surprise encounters (real-world version)
When you turn a corner and a dog is right there:
- Say: “LET’S GO!” immediately
- Turn your body fast
- Food to nose
- Move quickly away
If he barks once or lunges a bit—that’s okay.
Success =
👉 he comes with you within a second or two
6. If he’s already too worked up
If your dog is:
- barking repeatedly
- locked onto the dog
Use a reset:
Treat scatter
- Toss several treats on the ground behind you
- This interrupts the buildup just enough to move away
Then:
👉 “LET’S GO!” and exit
7. Train it outside of dog situations
This is where most of the progress actually happens.
During normal walks:
- randomly say “LET’S GO!”
- turn and move
- reward
Add mild distractions:
- people
- noises
- movement
You’re building:
👉 a reflex that holds up under pressure
What success looks like for your dog
Not silence. Not perfection.
Look for:
- shorter barking bursts
- faster recovery
- less resistance when turning
- quicker orientation back to you
That’s real progress.
The mindset shift
Instead of:
“Why is he acting aggressive?”
Think:
👉 “He’s overwhelmed and doesn’t know what to do with that energy”
And you’re teaching him:
👉 “When in doubt—move with me”
If you have any questions, let me know.
